Application of Ramming Mix Materials
Place the 5 cm slabs of plastıc on the wall the long dimension parallel to the face of the wall, or as a stretcher course when laying brick. Stageer the succeeding courses as in layingbrick.This helps to keep the top of the wall in an even plane as the work progresses.
Approximately every 4 th or 5th course lay the plastic slabs as headers.
At all times the good (or full) slices should be laid tight together and even with the specified wall line. The small pieces and trimmings can be fitted in behind the full slabs.
Completely ram each course of 5 cm plastic slabs before laying up the succeeding courses. Hold the rammer with one hand at the trigger position and place the other hand on top of the hose connection. Start ramming midway between the cold face of wall. Move the rammer in the sae direction of the wall lenght just fast enough so that each succeeding impact of the rammer head covers approximately half of the previous impact. Move the rammer back and forth from the center of the wall to the metal casing or insulation. When all voids in this portion of the wall are closed up, start again and work from the midway point of the wall proceed in the same manner to the face of the wall. As the rammer nears the outside face of the wall edge, continue the lengthening strokes, and with each back and forth movement progressivvely move the rammer in a 90°C arc peening over the edge of the wall).
It is well to finish ramming each course by lightly ramming the top 12,5 cm or 15 cm of the wall at the wall line. Time will re-seat any slab that may have been raised up by the peening action.
Before placing additional courses, each course of plastic should be rammed to approximately 6 mm to 12 mm past the specified wall with. This is to allow trimming or shaving the wall.
In the event the wall shoul become excessively bulged beyond the specified wall line from careless ramming the material should be trimmed off ratherthan forced back with the air rammer. The wall should be built up evenly from end. An efficient working area for each installer is from 1 to 2m. long.
The ramming procedure as described above should continue if possible to the top of the wall. When the top of the wall has to be closed in, the closing-in operation should be as follows;
When it is no longer possible to ram on the top of the wall, star at each end of the wall, placing the slabs on edge from the metal casing to the wall line and from the top of the plastic in place to the specified wall height.
Ram sideways, or against the ends of wall. Work to this centre of the wall, and close-in “Veeing” the slabs in.
In final closing-in action, if the wall is long enough and the workmen are available, the time involved in the closing-in process can be shortened by also ramming each way from the centre of the wall and closing in when meeting the work progressing from each end.
If work on the wall is stopped at any time before completion, a moist paper or sacking should be placed on the exposed top of the plastic. For installations requiring a week or more time, the wall should be covered with a polyethylene film. If there is at least an overninght interruption on proceeding of ramming, then the top 1-1/2 of the wall should be cut off and thorn away as it will be a crust which will not properly knit.
Clip Style Anchors
Do not set the reefractory anchor intil the plastic is builtup slightly above the bottom edge of teh C-Clips. Use the trimming spade and trim the top fo the wall level with the bottom edge of the C-Clip. Slide the blade under the CClip to continue this level plane for seating the head of the refractory anchor. Place the head of the refractory anchor into the C-Clip.
Bolt Style Anchors
Do not set the refractory anchors until the plastic is builtup to within 25mm-30mm of the centre line of the bolt. Use th trimming spade and trim the top of the wall level 35 mm below the centre line of thebolt. After setting the anchor, install the metal bolt attachment the anchor socket. Set anchor by holding the trimming spade in the upside down position and tap down lightly with the rubber pad of the trimming spade handle cushioning the blows. Tap only in the centre of the anchor.
The anchor may also be set with a rubber orwooden headed mason's hammer. Fit the plastic between an in back of the anchors and build up the top of the anchors in thee steps, so as not to distrub the position of the anchor. An alternate to setting anchors is to use an impression plate which would have the same contour as the anchors. The impression plate would be driven into the plastic removed, and proper anchor should be installed and then lightly tapped in place.
1st Step Ram the plastic lightly on each side and in back of the anchor to equalize the pressure of the plastic against the anchor.
2nd Step After “Tightening” up the plastic around the anchor, repeat the ramming process around the anchor until the material is firmly rammed in place.
3rd Step If anchors are wedged in place after ramming, the wedges should be removed before proceeding to ram on the next anchor.
Place the back side of the trimming blade against the plastic at an angle that will not dig in past the specified wall width. In most cases, this will be to the face of the refractory anchors, which can be used as a guid in the trimming process. Prior to trimming the surface, ram lightly around each anchor to ensure complete filing of the corrugation of the anchor.
Do not attempt get a smooth surface or to pry away material. This will seal the plastic and prevent movement of moisture in drying. Also, this would tend to loosen up the material.
Vent the surface immediately after trimming by use of a thin rod, such as a 4-5 mm round welding rod. Make vent holes between anchors in each direction, approximately on 15 cm to 25 cm centres and at a depth equal to full thickness for walls up to 25 cm or of plastic thickness, and for thicker plastic walls, a minimum of 25 cm or at least halfway throuhg the wall, whichever is greater. In all cases here a solid welded steel shell is in back of the plastic lining, the venting must be full depth of plastic. Any surface cracks that may appear when the refractory dries, prior to firing after firing, are due to unuven drying and are in no way detrimental to the job.